OK. So we didn't have hot fudge for breakfast but at the end of the day. But it was a long day. I thought I'd tempt you with the ending first!
We woke up to rain. I had worn my raincoat. PTL/JMJ/VJ. But by the time we had drunk our mugs of coffee and eaten our croissants, it was merely Aberdonian rain. Hardly enough to consider. We found the tram we wanted and took it as far as we thought we should. Actually, Fam asked where we were supposed to get off and I said, after we cross the Rhine River and she said but we just crossed it and I said, well, then we'd better get off!! So, we did! Then we had to figure out from the map where we were and how we were supposed to get to Allemanganne something or other. We finally saw a taxi driver and tried to ask him to take us, but he showed us on the map how to get there so we just walked away. I don't think he spoke English. We found a church that was on the map and a street circle so we just had to find the spoke that went the right way. After a couple of false advisors – it is amazing how many people who walk around neighborhoods have no idea where they live – Fam found an old man [her father told her to ALWAYS ask directions from Old Men! because they know where everything is and will give you proper directions] who told her which spoke to take. (I had sat down and waited.) We took the spoke, across street construction and barriers, and eventually saw a sign for the children's hospital. I knew that from the map. Five minutes later, we had found the house!
The von Balthasar-von Speyr archives are now held in a specially built home with glassed rooms, air locks, elevators and no humidity. No one is allowed to take a glass of water into the study rooms and offices outside the libraries. Von B's personal library is housed there. We think there must be some more books somewhere. Not that there weren't thousands of books, but that Fam was looking for specific things and didn't find ANY of them rather than only one or two which would have been devastating. [Really. for a scholar that has deep depressing meaning] We touched von B's and von Speyr's own books. (No, we didn't kiss them – that would have contributed too much humidity, I'm sure.) Another stack had all the books that were being published by the Johannes Verlag press. We asked about buying a couple books that are crucial to my project but Frau Capol wasn't allowed to do that. Instead, just before we left she gave us the books we needed as gifts.
Unfortunately, as you can see, we have no pictures of the home or archives. Or of Frau Capol. Or of the furniture that belonged to Adrienne, the chairs we sat on, the table we used. <sigh> Actually, if you look in the book My Early Years, you will see the chairs we sat on that had been in her front room with a view over the Rhine. And the table she worked on which we touched and put our papers on. There was a painting on the wall that had been Adrienne's of St. Ursilla and her companions. I don't know anything about that story so I guess I'll have to look that one up too now. We ate lunch on von B's table. <sigh>
Just for you, I have put here a view of the Rhine that she would have seen every day. Really. The house she lived in for over twenty years had this view. This was taken from the Munster Cathedral which was half a block from her home.
Frau had just celebrated 90 years, looked and acted about 70, and was in full use of her faculties and very much better than 6 months ago when she'd had surgery for something. She talked about typing the dictations of Adrienne to Hans Urs and how she was not allowed to speak of these things to anyone. She knew there was something very special and unique going on with Adrienne but couldn't ask questions or talk to anyone about it. Meanwhile, she described Adrienne as a very matter of fact woman, feet on the ground, commen sense and extremely humble. She always had knitting in her hands, knitting for the poor. Every year they would empty shelves and cupboards of her knitting to give to the poor. So, she was not weird or flaky in any way. In fact, she was quite fun and cheerful and would often have them laughing when they were on retreat or holidays.
The house in the front of the archive property is the Community of St. John. There are several women there now. All busy. Everyone has too much to do. Frau Capol said over and over again about how much work she had yet to do with sorting the books, putting correspondence in order, cataloguing everything. They did have a librarian once who came in and helped for a time, but it needs a librarian – someone already trained. The archives were very well organized and labeled but having scores of boxes even properly labeled boxes would be quite a chore to prepare for use.
One of the sisters drove us out to the Cemetery.Several famous people are buried there. you need only go into the office and ask where the grave is and they give you a little card with a map and make an x on your spot.
Since I am learning German from a Barth scholar, I went to his grave as well. His pictures follow in the Reformers post.
Here is Adrienne's grave: She is buried with her second husband Werner Kaegi, a well-known scholar in his own right. The form of the sculpture is Trinitarian, the heart of her work and contemplation. I think if you click on the picture you'll be able to see the inscription.
Next we went to see her home in Munsterplatz, the center of ancient Basel.
It is
emptied of all her things now and has become a music archive for the composer S. and I will insert his name as soon as I remember it!
I stood in front of her door and took this picture of the Munster Cathedral:
The view of the River from her home is above.
Here is another view of the Munsterplatz:
It looks amazingly like a real Swiss town doesn't it! 🙂
After touring the Cathedral – that'll be in the Reformer's post – the sister took us down to see the medical clinic that Herr Doktor von Speyr had used. It was just down the hill from her home, down cobbled streets, past the first building of the first university in Switzerland, established in 1460. It is younger than Aberdeen!
Her clinic was on the third floor here. The sister did not know if she had several rooms or the whole floor. Obviously, someone else uses those rooms now, since Herr Doktor had to give up her clinic in the early fifties. The Community has the actual plaque for her practice.
So, after walking my feet off – and Fam suggesting that I could endure the pain well enough when it was important enough to me, such as walking down to the house and the clinic, etc – we went to find somewhere posh to eat supper. Not finding anything on the way, … no, let me rephrase that: Not finding anything that was serving dinner yet since it was ONLY 5 pm! we went back to the hostel and rested. Then walked back to the closest posh place and had a nice meal for the price of an Applebee's meal. Thus, the hot fudge sundae. scrummy.